Thursday, 21 April 2011
Monday, 11 April 2011
I am currently doing designing, spec drawings and design sheets. Whilst annotating one of my sheets I found this piece of information.
Modern bespoke styles and high end off-the-rack suits equipped with surgeon's cuffs have the last two buttons stitched off-centre, so that the sleeve hangs more cleanly should the buttons ever be undone.
Modern bespoke styles and high end off-the-rack suits equipped with surgeon's cuffs have the last two buttons stitched off-centre, so that the sleeve hangs more cleanly should the buttons ever be undone.
A step collar
The notched lapel (American English), step lapel or step collar (British English) is sewn to the collar at an angle, creating a step effect. This is the standard on single breasted suits, and is used on nearly all suit jackets, blazers, and sports jackets. The size of the notch can vary, and a small notch is called fishmouth.
A pointed lapel
The peaked lapel (American English), double breasted style lapel or pointed lapel (British English), is the most formal, featuring on double-breasted jackets, and is now always worn with all formal coats such as a tailcoat or morning coat, and also commonly with a dinner jacket (both single and double breasted). The ability to properly cut peak lapels on a single-breasted suit is one of the most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors.
A shawl lapel
The shawl lapel, roll collar, or shawl collar is a continuous curve. Originally seen on the Victorian smoking jacket, it is now most common on the dinner jacket (tuxedo).
There are also other variations, such as the Nehru jacket, with no lapel.
http://wapedia.mobi/en/Lapel
Wednesday, 6 April 2011
Design
From looking at my sketch book I want to show simplicity within a tailored piece, I am going to do this by having small details or one point of focus as in Amish country the only detailing they have is that of the practical nature.
How can I show this?
-Panelling
-Pockets
-Darts
-Stitching
How can I show this?
-Panelling
-Pockets
-Darts
-Stitching
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