Toile Fitting

Having a toile fitting was interesting and a learning experience. I definitely benefited from having one, as on a mannequin the jacket sits almost awkwardly yet on a body you can see what needs to be altered and what is working and it is easier to compare to the original deign. 

I do not have too many amendments. 

- I have to shorten my pocket so it is more like my illustration.

- I have to take in my jacket to give it a slim line look.

Toiling

Half toile


First I did a half toile for the right and side which features a frog mouth pocket integrated into a panelled front. Sewing the frog mouth pocket into the panel was the hardest part of the toile as I had to negotiate it around the curve of the pocket. I had to rely on my notches which were NOT accurate. So I had to go back to my pattern and alter it, which was harder than I anticipated.


My collar worked perfectly as did the rest of the pattern.




Full toile


The full toile was a little bit more difficult.


The notches again did not match up on my pocket so I have to re think my pattern. Notches did not match up in several places so I need to  look at the rest of the pattern and double check.


I had difficulty with my full collar. Though it fit my 1/2 toile it did not my full toil. So I checked my pattern and my collar was 2cm too big so I amended it and carried on. The problem was that I didn't do a facing on my half toile I just added 5cm on to the raw edge of my front. My notches again need to be looked at due to the fact of me changing the length. 


The sleeves I could not fit in so I ended up with a tuck at the top of each sleeve, this is because calico is not the easiest fabric to manipulate and due to the time scale before the fitting I left it as that however in my final jacket I will not cut any corners.

Pattterns

Over all I have had little problems with the patterns. I found modelling the patterns on the stand minimised difficulties as you can follow your design in a 3D form like you have drawn it.


I started with the right hand side of my jacket due to the fact that it is asymmetric. I could not use the same pattern for both sides. Which I am glad of as I have learnt more techniques from doing this. 


I found doing the pattern for the left hand front more complicated as it features a panelled concealed front which I have never done before. I confused myself as I was not putting the centre front in the correct place making it much more difficult as the centre front is vital for the concealed front. But once I got this under control everything was fine.

10/05

Doing the pattern for my final design is interesting. My design features some design details I have not used before such as a frog mouth collar,back vent and conceal front fastening. So pattern cutting and toiling is going to be a learning curve.

02/05

Its the end of the Easter holiday and I have not done as much as I need to.


The design sheets are taking longer than anticipated. I think this is because when I am colouring my design I am shading them with pen when I should just do it on  Photoshop as it creates a cleaner look.