02/05

Its the end of the Easter holiday and I have not done as much as I need to.


The design sheets are taking longer than anticipated. I think this is because when I am colouring my design I am shading them with pen when I should just do it on  Photoshop as it creates a cleaner look.

The start of design pages

I am currently doing designing, spec drawings and design sheets. Whilst annotating one of my sheets I found this piece of information.

Modern bespoke styles and high end off-the-rack suits equipped with surgeon's cuffs have the last two buttons stitched off-centre, so that the sleeve hangs more cleanly should the buttons ever be undone.

http://www.cindywuphotography.co

Types of lapel

A step collar

The notched lapel (American English), step lapel or step collar (British English) is sewn to the collar at an angle, creating a step effect. This is the standard on single breasted suits, and is used on nearly all suit jackets, blazers, and sports jackets. The size of the notch can vary, and a small notch is called fishmouth.

A pointed lapel

The peaked lapel (American English), double breasted style lapel or pointed lapel (British English), is the most formal, featuring on double-breasted jackets,  and is now always worn with all formal coats such as a tailcoat or morning coat, and also commonly with a dinner jacket (both single and double breasted). The ability to properly cut peak lapels on a single-breasted suit is one of the most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors. 

A shawl lapel

The shawl lapel, roll collar, or shawl collar is a continuous curve. Originally seen on the Victorian smoking jacket, it is now most common on the dinner jacket (tuxedo). 

There are also other variations, such as the Nehru jacket, with no lapel.

http://wapedia.mobi/en/Lapel

Design

From looking at my sketch book I want to show simplicity within a tailored piece, I am going to do this by having small details or one point of focus as in Amish country the only detailing they have is that of the practical nature.


How can I show this?


-Panelling
-Pockets
-Darts 
-Stitching

Simplicity

sketch book

I have always been interested in the Amish. The simplicity of their life is tranquil and so far away from what life is like in the modern world. So picking them out of the 5 headings was no problem.


I want to look at how they live for my project. The fact that their clothes and whole lives are run by their bible and the head of their church. Their clothes are designed to prevent envy and jealousy among their community. By wearing the clothes they wear they conform to what they believe is right, their clothes are practical and shows them as one - THE AMISH. 


Another part of their life that fascinates me is the fact that they look like they are 'poor' people by the clothes they wear and how they live their live however they are in fact wealthy, they work hard and none. You can't always judge a book by it's cover! 

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New brief - the Amish - simplicity . . .